The Muslim Quarter in Xi’an, with its abundance of street food stalls, is a food-lover’s heaven, which is why I always stop by whenever I’m in Xi’an.
Some History First
Xi’an is the provincial capital of Shaanxi province in northern China. It was once also the capital of China during the Tang Dynasty. As the Eastern starting point of the Silk Road, Xi’an was a diverse melting pot of cultures and ideas. The significant Muslim community residing in Xi’an today are the descendants of Central Asian Silk Road traders who settled in Xi’an during that time.
The Hui people (回族) are a distinct ethnic minority group in China (there are 56 in total). They practice Islam, and there are about 50,000 Hui Muslims in Xi’an.
Back to the Street Food…
The integration of Islamic customs with Chinese cuisine has led to the development of a unique flavour of cooking, which you can enjoy in the Muslim Quarter! The most obvious difference is the substitution of pork for beef or lamb. But you will also taste different spices from those used elsewhere in Chinese cooking.
When you first arrive, the hustle and bustle may make you feel like you’ve stepped back in time to Tang Dynasty China. You will probably be overwhelmed choices and amazing smells. So how do you decide what to eat? Answer: try a bit of everything.
Here are 8 street foods you must try when you go!
1. Meat Skewer – 肉串 (ròu chuàn)
There are long queues outside these street stalls for a reason. These lamb skewers basted with spices and sizzled on the grill are simply heavenly.
They are made fresh and gone as quickly as they are cooked, so patience is a virtue here. However, there are multiple stalls around, so you can minimise your waiting time by finding one where the skewers are almost ready (probably with the biggest crowd). But even waiting is fun, as it’s fascinating to watch how the meat is seasoned and cooked.
2. Wheat Gluten Skewer – 面筋 (miàn jīn)
Despite the unappealing name, these wheat gluten skewers, or mian jin, are extremely tasty. They’re made from twists of gluten which are seasoned and then grilled. It’s makes the perfect vegetarian alternative to the meat skewers, and is equally satisfying
Watch out, as the seasoning is VERY spicy, although they will most likely go easy on the chilli sauce for any non-natives. If your mouth is on fire after eating one of these chewy spirals, then look no further than the next item on this list…
3. Chinese Yoghurt – 老酸奶 (lǎo suān nǎi)
This is the perfect refreshing drink, and especially effective for quenching the fires of spicy food. It’s similar to Greek or natural yoghurt, but is slightly sweeter and has a distinctive taste. They come in a glass container which you should return to be recycled.
(Not so) fun fact: drinking water just spreads the spiciness around your mouth, whereas milk or yoghurt contain a protein which can help get rid of it. Starchy food like bread will also help alleviate the pain. Interested in the chemistry behind this? Have a read of this article.
4. Quail Egg Skewer – 鹌鹑蛋串 (ān chún dàn chuàn)
Sensing a theme yet? (All the best street food comes on sticks!) Wooden skewers allow you to walk and eat with minimal mess and, best of all, are completely biodegradable.
These quail egg skewers are made-to-order in a special pan with tiny egg-sized indents, and finished off with a splash of hot sauce (obviously). They’re slightly crispy on the outside with a succulent centre. Each egg is perfectly bite-sized.
(Confession: I already had a bite of this before I remembered to take the photo!)
5. Persimmon Cake – 柿子饼 (shì zi bǐng)
These persimmon cakes, or persimmon bing, come with a crispy outer shell and a delicious soft centre. Cake is a slight misnomer here – the Chinese word “bing” doesn’t translate very well, and is a term which applies to a variety of flattened dough-based foods. This particular bing has a dense centre, and is probably closer to a thick sweet flatbread than your typical cake.
They are made from persimmon (also known as sharon fruit), which is an orange-coloured tomato-like fruit.
6. Osmanthus Cake – 桂花糕 (guì huā gaō)
Osmanthus is a plant with small fragrant flowers, and a popular flavour in many Chinese desserts. This giant yellow cake is made from glutinous rice and topped with dates. The sticky rice is sweet and cooling with a fragrant osmanthus aftertaste. They come in perfect bite-sized slices – enough to nibble on without becoming sickly sweet. It’s also served on (you guessed it) a stick.
7. Mirror Cake – 镜糕 (jìng gaō)
This mouth-watering cake is shaped like a mirror, which is where it gets its name. It’s made from glutinous rice flour which is steamed in a mould to create its distinctive shape. It comes in a variety of flavours, including: orange, melon, blueberry, strawberry, hawthorn berry, and pineapple. There are so many to choose from, although my favourite is rose-flavoured.
8. Indoor Eateries
Ok I cheated a bit with this last one as it’s not really a street food…
The Muslim Quarter has many places where you can sit down and enjoy classic favourites such as steamed dumplings (pictured above). You can also find places serving regional specialities like Biang Biang Noodles and Lamb Paomo Soup. These are all quite casual eateries with quick, no-frills service where space is at a premium.
Whilst the Muslim Quarter offers lots of Shaanxi’s regional specialities, these may not be regarded by some locals as being truly authentic. But don’t let that stop you, as there are plenty of locals and tourists alike (domestic and foreign) dining here.
Check out my guide with practical tips on visiting the Muslim Quarter. What was your favourite food? Let me know in the comments below!
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